Hello everybody,

I would like to share my challenge to resurrect an old Br44 which is in a worse situation.I am not sure if it will work but we shall see this at the end.I want to rebuilt it,weather it and display it as a showcase.

This is the situation of the loco;





..not promising , lets see how it turns out.

I first started withthe wheelsets, lathe turned them into RP-25 wheels;



...next I started with the backhead;

before;



and after;





..next step is to tone down the reds, I used Revell karminrot and a touch of burnt umbre and flat black;





will continue..

Erkut

Looks very good so far, Erkut!
Please keep us informed about the progress.

...next I weathered the cylinders;



then the sidewalks. I used a graphite pencil to bring out the effects of the chequered plates as seen on top part;



best rgds
Erkut

Hello Erkut,

it looks perfect, especially the backhead. Keep us in the info loop.

Best regards Achim

Hello Erkut,

very impressive !

Do you intend to remotorize your model and add a decoder as controller?

And there are some nasty pipes at the left side in front of the cab. Actually these fit well to the oil 44 / 043 but not to the coal version. Do cut them away or do plan to replace them completely?

Cheers,

Bernd

Hallo Bernd,

Actually I have 3 Br44's, all digitized and with sound. I do not have my hopes for this one because I checked the motor and it doesn't work, besides some parts are missing so I plan to do what I did with my Br85, just like this;



..as for the pipes I will replace them.

Best rgds
Erkut

..continuing with the wheel rods, used Tamiya gun metal, shall do the inner reds later,



gave the wheel brakes a metallic look;



..and finally blackened the inner wheel flanges;



best rgds

Erkut

Hi Erkut,

it's such a nice project! Exactly what I like. I'm sure the outcome will be well!


Cheers,
David

I really had a rough time in quartering the wheelsets, it drained the life out of me;here is how the chasis looks like:



..next moving on to the body;



One tip to the owners of a Roco Br44; under neath the body there is two grills which cannot be seen when mounted to the chasis, perfect space for Esu double mini speakers.



Erkut

The body is repainted with flat black with a mixture of burnt umbre and coated with matte varnish ready for powdering. All piping painted with gun metal ready to be mounted;



The interior detailed;





best rgds
Erkut

Wow
Your Stream Engine looks more detailed Thema the original

Before mounting the piping I started off by powdering. Sandfiled rembrant light gray chalk to obtain the powder;



...to create water stain effect;



The motor is kaput therefore the loco will be a static model and no need for a cardanshaft . I covered the firebox and mounted the lokfuhrer and crew;





Best rgds
Erkut

[quote="ebaykal"]The body is repainted with flat black with a mixture of burnt umbre and coated with matte varnish ready for powdering. All piping painted with gun metal ready to be mounted;



Hello Erkut,

excellent work, my compliments! Before you proceed with your work, only the oil-fired 44 had this preheater for the heating-oil: on your photo it can be seen at the lowest dismanteled single part with the water pump. Right from the feeding-pump, there is a long rectangular piece of plastic. Below this piece there is the cylindrical oil-preheater attached (you already painted it's tip (it is pointing to the water pump) in brass-colour). Coal-fired 44 did not need an oil-heater, of course.

by the way: the fire-man was always busy to keep his working place tidy. He'd removed such a heap of coal in front of the fire-box immediately.

kind regards
Stefan Walter

Thank you for your kind words Stephan,

Do you mean this part:



Powdering partly finished, I'll leave the final touches and adding the small pieces at the end, after mounting the tender.





Best rgds
Erkut

Yes, exactly! ...but only the lower cylindrical part should be removed. The reason why it is there, Roco's first 44, which appeared in 1982, was an oil-burner. The coal-fired version was introduced in ca. 1984 and they did not revise this plastic-part.


kind regards
Stefan

Just some pictures to make clear the point of Stefan and what I meant above.

Here the oil 44 or in detail a 043:

043 381-3, DB, Roco 68320

with the oil specific pipes:


For the oil locomotives this is correct.

However, the coal locomotives are different:


044 534-6, DB, Märklin 34880

in detail:


While the Märklin model of a coal 44 is correct, Roco reused the pipelining of the oil version which is wrong.

Zitat von berndm

---

Just some pictures to make clear the point of Stefan and what I meant above.

Here the oil 44 or in detail a 043:

043 381-3, DB, Roco 68320

with the oil specific pipes:


For the oil locomotives this is correct.

However, the coal locomotives are different:


044 534-6, DB, Märklin 34880

in detail:


While the Märklin model of a coal 44 is correct, Roco reused the pipelining of the oil version which is wrong.

---

Sorry, but I actually meant the single cylindrical pipe, just above the 4th and 5th wheel, not the "manifold" just in front of the cab. But I am afraid, Bernd is right, this furcation of the piping is also dispensable, because of it's origin from an oil-fired 44.

Stefan

Thanks Guys,

It seems I have to do a lot of cutting.
Shame on Roco

Brgds
Erkut

Hello,

the cutting isn't the challenge. After this there is a screw and the gear-box visible beneath the circuit. I thought "paint it black" could be a quick solution.

[quote="Iceman"]Hello,

the cutting isn't the challenge. After this there is a screw and the gear-box visible beneath the circuit. I thought "paint it black" could be a quick solution.

"Fortunately" this problem only occurs when you decide to modify the new version of a 44, with it's combined drive in tender and in the loco. I am still asking myself, if there was no better solution than amputating the lower part of the fire box.

kind regards
Stefan Walter

On with the tender; painted with flat black and a touch of burnt umbre;



Since we are not using the cardanshaft I sealed the area;



..and added coal;



44's were generaly hard work horses, I want to give it a battered look, took my beloved powders ;



..the far left being diluted white glue. Ithen applied mixtures of wet powder to the area that I want it to look rusty;



..don't let the appearance scare you, move on with downwards strokes with the brush to have it blend in;



I use a sharp end of a tweezer to make tiny holes;



...and leave it to dry for the final touch;



Best rgds
Erkut

Absolut great

best wishes

Stefan7

Thank you Stefan,

Tender finished;



...and moving on to prepare its final resting ground;



b.rgds
Erkut

Selected the rail (Tillig) and a piece of (I'm not sure what you guys call this up there, its a kind of hard cardboardish type of material) we call it dekota (forex) for the road bed;



I used it because it can easily be shaped by a retractable knife to give the slight inclination of a road bed.



...and after sandfiling;



After securing the rail on the bed with glue I sprayed it with dark brown paint;



...did the side details and sealed all with Dullcoat;



...next ballasting...

B.rgds
Erkut

On to ballasting.

If you guys do not mind I'd like to do this phase as a tutorial, in other words;showing my method of ballasting, hoping it might be useful to some one out there.

First, the selection of ballast and its color.My humble experience thru out these years is always to use fine scale ballast that N scalers use in HO. Not medium. They are, and looks too coarse for HO. Preferably the ballast should be crushed fine rock/stone, heavy in nature.
However said that I'll use Noch's medium on my showcase contradicting of what I have said because I have bagful of these which I have acquired ages ago, and do not want to waste my crushed fine ballast Jehewa, which is now very scarce left.

We will need a card, preferably an out of date credit card and a shovel;



..after pouring the ballast I simply use my forefinger to gently tap and spread the ballast, I never use brushes, they tend to catapult these tiny bits all around.The best brush is your fore finger.



Here is where the function of the credit card comes in: to gently squeeze the ballast for an evenly look appearance;



Next I take a brush with no bristles left on it;



...I use it to get rid of the tiny pieces stuck on the side rails:



here is how it looks. ( There are some pieces left on the sleepers...leave them as it is...we will deal with them later)



Now is the time to sprey the ballast with water; wetting it .



I usually mix the PVA glue with plain water at a ratio of 20:80 if I am working on a layout. However in this case I want the ballast to be rock hard and used a mixture of 40:60. I use a plastic type of pipette to gently pour the mixture of PVA on a not too high level. Since the ballast was pre wet there is no surface tension and the glue pours in to the ballast evenly without tiny pieces floating around that we usually complain about.



Fully soaked;



..now to deal with the tiny bits on the sleepers, simply just use your fore finger again gently to pick them up. Now that the ballast is wet your forefinger acts as a magnet.





here is how it looks before I take it out to the garden to be baked under the sun.



...next vegetation.

b.rgds

Erkut